Diane von Fürstenberg (born Diane Simone Michele Halfin; 31 December 1946)[2] is a Belgianfashion designer best known for her wrap dress.[3][4][5][6] She initially rose to prominence in 1969 when she married into the German princely House of Fürstenberg, as the wife of Prince Egon von Fürstenberg. Following their separation in 1972 and divorce in 1983, she has continued to use his family name.
Fürstenberg was born Diane Simone Michele Halfin in Brussels, Belgium, to Jewish parents.[14] Her father, Bessarabian-born Leon (Lipa) Halfin, migrated to Belgium in 1929 from Chişinău, Kingdom of Romania (now Moldova) and later sought refuge from the Nazis in Switzerland.[15][1] Her mother was Greek-born Liliane Nahmias, from Thessaloniki, a Holocaust survivor, who was initially captured by the Nazis while she was a member of the Resistance during World War II.[16][17][1] Nahmias was first taken to Auschwitz, then transferred to Ravensbrück, where she was liberated 18 months before Fürstenburg's birth. Weighing only 49 pounds, her mother was told by doctors that she should not have children, that she could die in childbirth, and that her baby would not be normal.[18] Fürstenberg has spoken broadly about her mother's influence in her life, crediting her with teaching her that "fear is not an option."[19]
Fürstenberg attended a boarding school in Oxfordshire.[20] She studied at Madrid University before transferring to the University of Geneva to study economics.[21] She then moved to Paris and worked as an assistant to fashion photographer's agent Albert Koski.[4] She left Paris for Italy to apprentice with the textile manufacturer Angelo Ferretti in his factory, where she learned about cut, color and fabric.[4] It was here that she designed and produced her first silk jersey dresses.
A year after marrying, Fürstenberg began designing women's clothes: "The minute I knew I was about to be Egon's wife, I decided to have a career. I wanted to be someone of my own, and not just a plain little girl who got married beyond her deserts."[22] After the Fürstenbergs separated in 1973, Egon also became a fashion designer.[23][24] After moving to New York, she met high-profile Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who declared her designs "absolutely smashing". She had her name listed on the fashion calendar for New York Fashion Week, and so her business was created.[4] She moved into an estate in Connecticut she named Cloudwalk, and has lived there ever since.[25]
In 1974, she introduced the knitted jersey "wrap dress", which became an iconic piece in women's fashion; it is included in the collection of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.[3][7][26][27] Soon after the launch, 25,000 dresses were selling each week; one million dresses had been sold by 1976, according to Forbes.. After the success of the wrap dress, von Fürstenberg was featured on the cover of Newsweek magazine in 1976.[28][29] The accompanying article declared her "the most marketable woman since Coco Chanel."[30] She launched a cosmetic line and her first fragrance, "Tatiana", named after her daughter.[30]The New York Times reported that by 1979 the annual retail sales for the company were $150 million (equivalent to $630 million in 2023).[4]
In 1985, von Fürstenberg moved to Paris, where she founded Salvy, a French-language publishing house.[4] She started a number of other businesses, including a line of cosmetics and a home-shopping business, which she launched in 1991. In 1992, von Fürstenberg sold $1.2 million (equivalent to $2.6 million in 2023) of her Silk Assets collection in two hours on QVC.[30] She credits the success with giving her the confidence to relaunch her company.[citation needed]
Fürstenberg relaunched her company in 1997, and reintroduced the wrap dress, which gained popularity with a new generation of women. Initially, the relaunch was a failure but, with the appointment of Paula Sutter as president of the brand, it was seemingly restored to its heyday of the mid-seventies. In 1998, she published her business memoir, Diane: A Signature Life.[4] In 2004, she introduced the DVF by H. Stern fine jewelry collection, and launched scarves and beachwear. In 2006, she was elected president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, a position she held until 2019. In 2008, she received a star on Seventh Avenue's Fashion Walk of Fame.[4]
First Lady Michelle Obama wearing a Diane von Fürstenberg wrap dress
In 2009, Michelle Obama wore the DVF signature "Chain Link" print wrap dress on the official White House Christmas card.[31] That same year, a large-scale retrospective exhibition entitled "Diane von Furstenberg: Journey of a Dress" opened at the Manezh, one of Moscow's largest public exhibition spaces. Curated by Andre Leon Talley, it attracted media attention. In 2010, the exhibition traveled to São Paulo; and in 2011, to the Pace Gallery in Beijing.[32]
In 2010,the designer was awarded a gold medal at the annual Queen Sofía Spanish Institute Gold Medal Gala.[33] In 2011, DVF introduced a home collection, and a signature fragrance, Diane.[34]
In 2012, von Fürstenberg launched her first children's collection with GapKids[35] and a denim collaboration with Current/Elliott.[36]
A dress von Fürstenberg designed in the 1970s was part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.
In 2014, the designer joined the Ban Bossy campaign as a spokesperson advocating leadership roles for girls.[39][40][41] She also released her second memoir, The Women I Wanted to Be, an autobiography which delved into her personal life and upbringing.
Between 2017 and 2019, the DVF brand lost nearly $80 million, leading to an eventual 75% of the workforce made redundant in the U.S in May 2020. By 2018, sales, which had been $300 million before the 2008 recession, were down to $150 million.[42]
In 2018, the brand banned mohair use after a PETA exposé showed workers mutilating and killing goats to obtain it.[43] All fur, angora and exotic skins were also banned from future collections.[44]
In 2020, DVF closed 18 of its 19 USA stores permanently.[45]
Philanthropy
Fürstenberg is a director of the Diller – von Furstenberg Family Foundation, which provides support to nonprofit organizations in the areas of community building, education, human rights, arts, health and the environment.[46] In 2010, the foundation created The DVF Awards, presented annually to four women who display leadership, strength and courage in their commitment to women's causes.[47] In 2011, the foundation made a $20 million commitment to the High Line.[48]
In 2006, she was elected President of The Council of Fashion Designers of America, (CFDA), after winning the Andre Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Award in 2005.
In 2014, Ovation TV featured The Fashion Fund, a documentary about the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition. Fürstenberg starred alongside Anna Wintour in the program.[55]
In November 2014, the E! network started airing the first season of reality show House of DVF. Contestants on the show performed various tasks and challenges in the hopes of becoming a global brand ambassador for Fürstenberg.[56][57] In September 2015, it returned for a second (final) season.[58]
The von Fürstenbergs' marriage, although unpopular with the groom's family because of the bride's Jewish ethnicity, was considered dynastic, and on her marriage she became Her Serene Highness Princess Diane of Fürstenberg.[59] However, she lost any claim to the title following their separation in 1972 and divorce in 1983.[60][61]
In 2009, Fürstenberg signed a petition in support of film director Roman Polanski, calling for his release after Polanski was arrested in Switzerland in relation to his 1977 sexual abuse case.[62]
Fürstenberg enjoys her time on her 'floating home' super-yacht, she swims in the sea every morning for two hours, and hikes in the afternoons. She has travelled the world and claims to be "the world’s lightest packer and always ready to go".[65]
^von Ehrenkrook, Hans Friedrich; von Hueck, Walter; Franke, Christoph (1991). Genealogisches Handbuch des Adels: 100 Fürstliche Häuser [Genealogical Handbook of the nobility: 100 Princely Houses] (in German). Vol. 14. CA Starke. p. 261. ISBN978-379-8007-000. OCLC163521699.